Siding in Puget Sound: Costs, Materials and How to Hire
Re-siding an average two-story Seattle-area house costs $30,000 to $70,000 in fiber cement, $18,000 to $40,000 in vinyl, $28,000 to $60,000 in engineered wood and $40,000 to $85,000 in cedar. The material gets the attention, but in a climate this wet the layer behind the siding decides how long the walls last.
What new siding costs here
| Siding | Typical two-story house | Lifespan with good installation |
|---|---|---|
| Fiber cement lap or panel | $30,000 – $70,000 | 30 – 50 years; paint every 10 – 15 |
| Vinyl | $18,000 – $40,000 | 20 – 40 years |
| Engineered wood | $28,000 – $60,000 | 25 – 40 years; paint every 10 – 15 |
| Cedar lap or shingle | $40,000 – $85,000 | 20 – 40 years with regular finishing |
| Trim, soffit and fascia package | $4,000 – $15,000 | Depends on material |
Quotes usually include removing the old siding, new water-resistive barrier, flashing at windows and doors, trim and caulking. Rot repair in the sheathing and framing is typically priced separately once the walls are open.
Siding materials compared
Fiber cement is the most common choice for new and replaced siding in the region. It does not rot, resists fire and holds paint well, and factory-finished boards come with long paint warranties. It is heavy, must be cut with dust control, and needs careful detailing at joints and ends.
Vinyl costs least and needs no paint. Quality varies a lot by thickness; thin panels sag and rattle in wind. It suits houses where budget leads and the style is simple, and it can look out of place on Craftsman or mid-century houses.
Engineered wood, such as treated strand siding, is lighter than fiber cement, easier to install, and looks like painted wood. It must be sealed at every cut and kept clear of the ground and roofs.
Cedar is the traditional Northwest siding and still the most handsome on period houses. It needs finishing every several years, and in shade it greys and grows mildew faster. Clear grades last longer than knotty grades.
The layer behind the siding
Rain gets behind every siding eventually. What matters is whether it can get out. A rainscreen gap of a few millimeters to about three-quarters of an inch between the siding and the water-resistive barrier lets water drain and walls dry. Many contractors in the region now build it into every job, and some codes and product warranties expect it.
Flashing at windows, doors, decks and roof-to-wall joints is where most wall rot starts. Ask every contractor how they flash each of these, and whether they will remove and reflash windows or tape over the old flashing.
Siding on older houses
Many houses built in the 1940s through the 1970s were sided, or later re-sided, with asbestos-cement shingles. They are stable when intact but must be tested and handled by certified workers when removed. The Puget Sound Clean Air Agency requires an asbestos survey before many renovation projects. Houses built before 1978 may also have lead paint on original wood siding and trim, which means lead-safe work practices under Washington's renovation rules.
Siding permits
A siding replacement that does not change the structure often needs no building permit, but rules vary by city and by whether sheathing is replaced, windows change or the work is in a historic district. The Permit Checker covers your city.
How to vet a siding contractor
- Confirm registration, bond and insurance on the L&I "Verify a Contractor" tool.
- Ask whether they install a rainscreen and what product or method they use.
- Ask how they flash windows: new pan flashing and tape, or caulk against the old window flange.
- Ask how rot repair is priced and whether you see it before it is covered.
- For fiber cement, ask whether they follow the manufacturer's installation instructions, which some warranties depend on.
- For pre-1980 houses, ask about the asbestos survey and lead-safe certification.
Siding quote red flags
- No mention of a water-resistive barrier, or "we'll reuse the old paper."
- Window flashing described only as "caulk."
- Siding installed over old siding on a house with moisture problems.
- No allowance at all for rot repair on an older house.
- Paint not included on primed products, with no note that you will need a painter.
Siding guides by city
Questions about siding
How long does re-siding take?
Two to four weeks for most houses, depending on size, trim complexity and rot found.
Can I replace one side of the house?
Yes, but matching color and profile on older materials is hard. Many owners do the worst wall first and the rest later in the same product.
Is fiber cement worth the extra cost over vinyl?
For houses you plan to keep, usually yes: it lasts longer, resists fire and suits more house styles. For a rental or a short hold, vinyl can make sense.
Should I replace windows at the same time?
If the windows are near the end of their life, yes. Flashing new windows into new siding is the cleanest way to get both right.
Does new siding improve energy use?
The siding itself very little. Adding exterior insulation under new siding does, but changes trim depths and window details.