Deck or Patio: Choosing an Outdoor Surface
The choice between a deck and a patio usually comes down to one measurement: how far the back door sits above the yard. Below about a foot and a half, a patio is almost always simpler and cheaper; above three feet, a deck almost always is. In between, shade, soil and how you will use the space decide.
Quick comparison
| Factor | Deck | Patio |
|---|---|---|
| Best when | Door is well above the yard; yard slopes away | Door is near grade; yard is level |
| Installed cost | $45 – $110 per sq ft, more if elevated | $25 – $55 per sq ft |
| Lifespan | 15 – 30 years, framing dependent | 25 – 40+ years with a proper base |
| Maintenance | Cedar oiling, composite washing, framing checks | Joint sand, moss brushing |
| In damp shade | Low decks stay wet; choose composite | Holds up well; moss in joints |
| Heavy items: hot tub, kitchen, fire pit | Needs engineering | Simple with a reinforced base |
| Permit | Often, if raised or attached | Usually not |
Start with the door height
Measure from the threshold of the back door to the ground where you would step out.
- Under 18 inches: a patio with one step down, or a low freestanding deck. Patios win on cost and lifespan.
- 18 to 36 inches: either works. A low deck avoids building up the ground; a patio may need a retaining wall and fill. Compare both.
- Over 36 inches: a deck at door level, possibly with steps down to a patio. Building a patio up to that height means walls and engineering.
Then look at the ground
Slope. Ground that falls away from the house favors a deck, which can follow the slope with posts. Building a level patio on a slope means cut, fill and walls.
Soil. Much of the region sits on clay and glacial till that drain slowly. Patios need a deep compacted base and slope away from the house; decks need footings on undisturbed soil below the frost line.
Shade and moisture. Low decks over damp ground in shade stay wet underneath and wear out faster, especially in cedar. In those spots, a patio or a composite deck with ventilation is the better choice.
Trees. Patios need excavation that can harm roots; decks on a few footings can span over them, which can matter under city tree rules.
Then think about use
- Dining and lounging by the kitchen: deck at door level or patio at grade, whichever matches the door.
- Fire pit: patio, or a gas fire table rated for decks.
- Outdoor kitchen: usually on a patio or a reinforced pad.
- Hot tub: patio or reinforced pad is simplest; on a deck it needs dedicated framing.
- Play area or lawn connection: a patio blends into the yard; a deck sets a boundary.
- Views over a slope: a raised deck.
Combinations that work
Many Puget Sound yards end up with both: a deck at the door with wide steps down to a patio that holds the fire pit or the kitchen. This keeps the door connection simple, uses the patio's durability where heavy features go, and creates two distinct areas.
Covering either one
A roof over part of the deck or patio extends its use far into the wet season. Decks need footings for roof posts; patios need footings poured before the pavers go down. Plan cover with the surface, not after.
Deck and patio permits compared
Decks more than 30 inches above grade, attached decks, decks over 200 square feet and any roofed structure generally need a permit. Ground-level patios usually do not, though large new hard surfaces can trigger stormwater review in some cities. Check with the Permit Checker.
Making the choice
Measure the door height, note sun and shade through the day, check the slope and soil, list what you want to do outside and get a rough price for both. When the costs are close, choose the surface that suits the door height and the shade, because those are the conditions you cannot change.