When and How to Repaint a House in a Rainy Climate
In the Puget Sound region, paint fails less from sun than from water: damp wood under the film, mildew on shaded walls and caulk joints that let rain in. A repaint that lasts depends on timing it to a dry stretch and on prep that most of the job's labor should go into.
Signs it is time
- Paint is peeling, flaking or blistering, especially at the bottom of walls and around windows.
- Bare wood shows at corners, sills and trim edges.
- Caulk is cracked or missing at trim, windows and joints.
- Colors have faded noticeably on south and west walls.
- Mildew keeps returning on north walls after washing.
- Soft spots in trim, sills or fascia.
Wood siding here typically needs repainting every 7 to 12 years, fiber cement every 10 to 15, and south and west walls sooner than north and east.
Why paint fails here
Moisture under the paint. Wood that is painted while damp, or that takes in water through bare end grain, pushes the paint film off as it dries.
Mildew. Shaded, damp walls grow mildew, which feeds on dirt and some paint components. Painting over it without killing it brings it back through the new coat.
Bad caulking. Caulk that seals joints meant to drain, such as the bottom edge of lap siding, traps water behind it.
Rot. Painting over soft wood hides it until the next paint failure.
The prep sequence
- Wash. Clean the walls with a mild detergent and mildewcide, at low pressure. High pressure drives water into wood.
- Dry. Wait several dry days. A moisture meter reading on the wood is the honest way to know.
- Scrape and sand. Remove loose paint; feather edges so they do not show.
- Repair. Replace rotted trim, sills and siding boards.
- Prime. Spot-prime bare wood and repairs; use a stain-blocking primer on cedar.
- Caulk. Seal joints at trim and windows; leave the bottom edges of lap siding open to drain.
- Paint. Two finish coats on siding and trim, at the manufacturer's spread rate.
Weather limits
Most exterior paints have a minimum surface and air temperature, commonly around 50°F, and need several dry hours after application. Dew, fog and morning dampness count. The practical painting window here runs from late spring to early fall; within it, start on sunny walls while shaded walls dry.
Paint or stain
Paint gives the widest color choice and the most protection when prep is good; it fails by peeling.
Solid stain shows wood texture and fails by fading, which is easier to recoat.
Semi-transparent stain shows grain and suits cedar in good condition; it needs recoating more often.
Switching from paint to stain means stripping, which on older houses brings lead rules into play.
Products
High-quality acrylic exterior paints perform well on wood, fiber cement and stucco here. Choose a product with mildew resistance for shaded walls. Satin is common for siding, semi-gloss for trim and doors. Lighter colors fade more slowly and keep siding cooler.
Lead paint on older houses
Houses built before 1978 likely have lead paint under newer coats. Under Washington's lead renovation rules, painters who disturb painted surfaces on these houses must be certified and use lead-safe practices: containment, no open-flame burning or uncontrolled power sanding, and careful cleanup. Honest quotes include this.
Comparing painting quotes
Line up quotes by:
- The written prep sequence, including drying time and priming.
- Carpentry repairs: included, allowance or excluded.
- Product line and number of coats.
- Areas included: siding, trim, doors, gutters, decks.
- Protection of plants, windows and roofs.
- Lead-safe certification on pre-1978 houses.
- Workmanship warranty.
A lower quote with no prep detail usually means less prep, which is the part that decides how long the paint lasts.
Keeping a paint job going
Wash the house every year or two, keep gutters clean and downspouts away from walls, trim plants back from siding and recaulk failing joints as they appear. Touching up south and west walls between full repaints extends the cycle.